How to make panel lines gundam
Panel lining is an easy way to make your Gunpla kit more detailed and awesome! Materials that will be used are the marker of your choice and a rubber erasermy personal favorite is the COPIC Multiliner. For the rubber eraser, I like the red rough ones being sold in National Bookstore. The rubber eraser will fix that. Rubbing the lines using the rubber eraser can quickly clean your panel lining neatly. Extra tip: Rub the panel line using your rubber eraser perpendicular to the line being cleaned.
This method is also known as enamel wash as it involves thinned out enamel paint as the panel lining tool. Before Tamiya produced these Panel Line Accent Color bottles which are enamel basedhobbyists resort to the original Tamiya enamel paints and thin it with lighter fluid or enamel thinner. I still like black. This method is also easy! You just have to use the applicator that is attached to the bottle cap and dab it to the panel lining.
T he concept is that the enamel paint is thinned enough that it will run itself through the linesall you have to do is dab a small amount of Panel Line Accent Color on any part of the panel line. So be careful okay? Now we can clean the smudges and ink blots using a small amount of enamel paint thinner on a cotton swab. I hope fellow hobbyists and Gunpla beginners will find it useful. Like Like. Like Liked by 2 people. Like Liked by 1 person. Nice…I have few things to ask… Will acrylic thinner x20A work instead of enamel thinner x20?
Second is I like to paint the gunpla with airbrush acrylics. Note that enamel paint can thin acrylic paint. What I do is coat the airbrushed acrylic with lacquer clear gloss, then do panel lining. Sorry for the late reply. Good question! You can use it while the marker is still wet, the thing is, markers like copic multiliner takes a very looong time to dry, usually more than nuget install hours.
Note that in my experience, Gundam Markers dry faster and are harder to erase when dry. If i use the Tamiya Panel Accent Color, how long do i have to wait before cleaning the smudges?Panel lines are those lines which resemble tiny drains on the surface of most gunpla.
Using markers. This is the most noob-friendly method. Basically you can use any fine tip marker with the color of your choice preferably dark colors to draw along the panel lines. I have a fine-tip black Gundam marker which I bought when I first started this hobby and I still use it from time to time.
You can just rub off any excess lines using an eraser or just rub using your fingers. You should get something like this:. Cons: Choice of color is limited by what marker is available.
Very tedious when you have a lot of panel lines to fill. This method involves thinning your enamel paint and applying the colors on the panel lines using a fine-tip paint brush. If the paint is thinned properly and the panel line is deep enough, the paint will flow along the panel line due to capillary movement.
The reason is to avoid wiping off your base paint when you wipe the excess panel lines.
Of course, this can be circumvented by applying a layer of gloss topcoat over your paintjob before you apply the panel lines, but that just adds another step to your workflow. I have no exact formula on how much thinner or paint to use, just as long as it looks thinned. If you find that the paint is too thick, just add more thinner and vice versa. After you finished panel lining, you can clean up the smudges by wiping them off using a cotton bud soaked in the appropriate thinner.
If you feel that thinning paints is too much work, you can buy ready-to-use enamel paints by Tamiya. Pros: More choice of colors, depending on what paints you have available remember: black is not the only panel line color. Easier to do when you have a lot of panel lines to fill. Looks more natural. Cons: More startup material paint, thinner, brush needed. Can look smudgy when excess lines are not cleaned properly.
Final comments: The preferred choice for those who paint their kits and just as effective on bare plastic as well. RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URI.Modern kits built and painted as per instructions reflect the original in pristine condition.MG Gundam Kits Sazabi fpu.gcaxsplit.pw / WIP montage
In contrast, real world objects most often show the effect of aging and weathering. For example, surfaces become bleached, tarnished, painted, scuffed, corroded, knicked, scratched, stained, and otherwise modified under the influence of the environment.
In the eyes of the viewer, these changes in appearance can enhance the value of the object since they emphasize its longevity and history. Weathering is a term associated to the process of making the model look like it has been used.
One area which especially calls for some subtle weathering are recessed joint and panel lines on the model. This is for the two main reasons. Firstly, in normal lightning conditions, such recesses on the original object would often create some shade and thus appear darker than the surrounding surface.
Secondly, crevices is where dirt and grime would assemble and stay on the real object. Both of these effects need some help from the modeller to look "right" in scale.
The obvious conclusion for many modellers is to pay special attention to the recessed panel lines on a model. The basic idea is that the model would look more lifelike if its panel lines appear darker than the overall finish. The effect will vary depending on the technique used, but all of the described processes will have the effect of making the painted surface of the model look more alive.
This article provides a basic review of the mostly used techniques. Pre-shading requires an airbrush. The idea is to paint shades along the panel lines first using a strong color shade so that they will still show through the final paint finish. In most cases modellers use black or dark grey to do this. Later, when applying the actual camouflage finish to the model, care should be taken to apply the paint in thin coats, ensuring that the underlying shaded areas partially show through and affect the tone of the top colour.
Although it may sound tricky for the uninitiated, the whole routine is easily controllable with an airbrush, especially with the top-coat paint diluted to an extra thin consistency. Airbrush is a tool of choice also for post-shading. Like tha nema implies, shades along panel lines are applied last -- on top of the camouflage, much like real dirt or dust.
It is recommended to try a darker shade of the camouflage color used, or a very diluted grey. Some modellers use straight-edge paper masks along the shaded lines to emphasize the effect further.I find it easier to draw your design on the parts this way,but i don't think it make much of a difference.
I just prime it first to spot for nubs and other mistakes i've made when i was assembling it. Saturday, 11 June How to scribe nice and clear panel lines for your gundam models. Most of you may already know how to scribe panel lines,but for those who are still finding a good way to do this,this tutorial may be able to help you. When I was finding ways to scribe panel lines,my main problem was scribing similar pattern to both sides of a part.
There are some who use tracing paper,but i find it hard to use because sometimes the transferred pencil marks does not come out clearly. Thus,I went to find other alternatives and i find using a transparent sheet to mark out,the easiest way to do this. Tools-These are the scribing tools i use,the small scriber top have a small tip and the bigger scriber bottom is for scribing larger lines. Labels: gundam modelinggunplascribing panel linetutorial.
Unknown 29 April at StraitStealth 29 April at Unknown 26 May at Newer Post Older Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom.This is a tutorial for applying a wash to paint in the panel lines. This method is very inexpensive, as you will notice that very little paint is used. Additionally, different paint colors can be selected for applying the wash, such as dark grays, black, dark blues, etc. I also like this method over the pen method since the lines tend to be much thinner, and the application and clean up is much easier.
Granted there are certain prerequisites that must be met for this method to work. The first step is to ensure that you have sprayed on a gloss clear coat. Since I use and enamel oil based paint for the wash solution, I can use either an acrylic clear coat Future Floor Polish or a lacquer based clear coat Mr Super Clear Gloss.
The Gunpla Model Beginner’s Guide for Building Amazing Kits
The reasons why will become clear after a few steps. Having clear coated the parts and allowed for the clear coat to cure, I can move on to the actual wash. As stated earlier, I am using enamel paint and enamel thinner note that the thinner is the same brand as the paint Some enamel thinners may be too strong for model applications.
Then touch the tip of the brush onto the panel lines. Now here is where the previous gloss coat and the different type of paints do all the work. The clear coat keeps the wash solution from flowing all over the place and stays in the line.
If the surface was a flat finish or even a matte finish, the surface of the kit will start to absorb the wash solution like a sponge and the solution will not be contained to just the lines.
The reason for this is that flat paints and clears create tiny microscopic bumps on the surface which refract light which when looked at, looks dull and non reflective. These tiny little bumps creates a sponge like surface that will absorb the wash solution; essentially the wash solution will flow all over the part. With the gloss, the surface is ultra slick and the wash solution will freely flow in the panel lines.
It is also important to use different paint types. Since acrylic paints are water soluble, the enamel paints which are oil based, will not mix with each other.
The same goes for a lacquer clear coat and using an enamel based wash solution. It is also important to know which paints will eat other paint types. As a rule of thumb, it is always better to layer paints from strongest to weakest, the weakest at the top.
Lacquers are the strongest paint types, enamels next, and then followed by acrylics. I like using enamel paints since they are oil based and have a relatively slow dry time, this allows the paint to flow easily and gives me time for easy clean up since the paint has yet to dry on the surface.
Again, since the clear coat is a different paint type, the enamel thinner will not remove the clear coat or paint. And this is all there is to applying a wash for panel lines. Here is a comparison picture of the same part, with and without the wash applied:. Updating this tutorial with a video for panel lining. For this example, I used naphtha based lighter fluid as the thinning agent. I find that the lighter fluid flowed smoother, dried quicker, and cleaned up easier than the enamel thinner.
The surface of the clear coat was still smooth after rubbing a paper towel moistened with lighter fluid against the surface to remove excess paint. The below video shows the process to making the panel line solution. Get the Flash Player to see this player. Below is a video of the panel lining process. This process follows the steps detailed in the above section. And finally, below is a video showing the process for cleaning up excess paint.
On a side note, the excess paint was removed after the panel line wash was applied a full day prior. You can see that the excess removal process did not damage the painted surface around the panel line.Have you ever thought about building a Gundam model or bought one only to find it sitting on your shelf?
In this article we lay out each step and give helpful tips along the way to make your model building experience a lot of fun! Before you start building Gunpla, the first thing to do is prepare a suitable workspace like the one below.
The next thing to do is to become more familiar with your kit by taking out the runners where the parts are and taking a look at the instruction booklet. On the first few pages of the instruction booklet you will find a visual list of the runners and their respective parts with corresponding letter designation. You can then arrange the runners in alphabetical order. A good tip is to lay them inside the box so that when you need a runner that contains a specific part, it will be easier to access it.
Here are translations of some of the most common symbols that can be found in your Gunpla instruction booklet:. These are one of the best side cutters for Gunpla, it cuts plastic like butter, great for cleaning out nib marks because stress on the plastic piece is reduced die to the high quality design and sharpness of the side cutters.
This is for further cleaning of nib marks. Be careful when using this tool because the blade is really sharp! These are used for sanding the parts after nib removal for an extra smooth finish. You can make your own with just some Popsicle sticks and sandpaper that have been cut to size. You can see in the image that the grit size has also been written on the stick for easy reference.
Parts to be cut are indicated on the instruction booklet that is denoted by a letter of the runner and the number of the part. Assembling them is pretty straightforward most of the time and can be easily understood based from the clear diagrams.
In cutting the parts, do not cut right on the edge of the part. Cut away from the edge, leaving a few millimetres of plastic on the part, and then begin to remove the excess plastic little by little. This will avoid the creation of white stress marks that can be left when you cut as close to the piece as possible.
First use a low grit number to even out the surface like grit sandpaper. Then increase the grit number to smoothen the surface.
Do this for all of the parts to have a nice clean look on your built Gunpla. Goodbye pesky nib marks! Gundam markers come in different colors like grey and brown, though black is the standby color for most models. This is used to clean excess ink from the part especially if you want your piece to look spotless. As you can see in this example, the line is a bit thick and there is a slight excess of ink around the bottom of the piece.One of the many great things about Gunpla is that the more you obsess over the details, the more amazing your kit becomes.
For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining. And the great thing about panel lining is that once you know how to do it, you can easily apply it to anything you build!
What kind of marker should you use? The most common are the Gundam Panel Lining Markers, which are readily available at hobby shops. The fine tip markers are made specifically for panel lining. The Gundam Markers can be erased by rubbing a rubber eraser on any mistakes or excess ink, but make sure you do so right away after applying the panel lining, as Gundam Markers become harder to erase once the ink has dried.
If you want an anime look for your Gunpla kit, the black Gundam Marker is your best choice. If you want a more realistic looking kit, then you can use the Gray Gundam Marker. It is also a good choice for light colored Gunpla pieces.
The brown Gundam Marker is best for simulating rust in some of your panel lines. It also goes well with red and yellow armour parts.
Gunpla Panel Lining Tutorial
But the downside is that you need to be careful in handling the parts that have already been panel lined, since you risk smudging the still wet ink. For the COPIC Multi-Liner any rubber pencil eraser can be used; and since the plastic surface is smooth, wet ink can be easily removed by rubbing the pencil eraser along the pieces panel lining. Another alternative worth mentioning are Micron Markers, which come in many different colors and tip sizes. Remember, this method can be applied to any panel lining you do.
Applying panel lining using markers is actually pretty easy. Just run the marker through on the panel line, making sure the ink seeps through the groove. Then, use a rubber eraser to rub off any excess ink or mistakes. Let it dry overnight. Tip: Rub the eraser perpendicular to the panel line to prevent smudging the ink along the panel line.
Some people prefer the lines to be thick, you can forego the rubber eraser if you want your final lines to be thick. You just need a steady hand to make a nice panel line. If you painted your kit beforehand, make sure that you have sprayed some clear gloss on your Gunpla kit or parts before applying the panel lining.
Panel lining works best on smooth surfaces like the bare plastic parts or pre-painted parts that have been protected with clear gloss paint.